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LIPTOVSKÝ HRÁDOK
(637 m, population 8,600), is the tourist and economic centre of the
region of Horný Liptov and is situated under the northern protuberances
of the Nízke Tatry mountains and at the confluence of the Belá and Váh
rivers.
A pre-historic settlement, of what is today the area of the town, is
documented by the finds left here by the people of Lusatian culture. A
predecessor of the town was the community, Belsko, existing as early as
in the 13th century. Although it disappeared later, the continuity of
the settlement of this territory was maintained by the castle Hrádok
built on a small hill near the river Belá.
A castle and a woman:
Though several versions of a story narrating the origin of the
castle exist, one thing is certain: The first reference to the castle
is from 1341 as novum castrum. The castle, made of stone, was built by
the head of the Zvolen province, Donč, at the beginning of the 14th
century when the land of several squires was confiscated beforehand.
Their protests in the Ostrigom canonry were made in vain. Donč was a
confidential friend of the Old Hungarian king Karol Róbert and belonged
to the most influential figures in Old Hungary. A castle was built on a
five meter high limestone rock. Even though it was protected by
fortifications and a water ditch it was very vulnerable as was proved
by numerous sieges and destruction. It belonged to military buildings
guarding an important trade route along the river Váh. One of the
legends testify that the castle was connected by underground passages
to the fortifications near Liptovský Ján and even with the castle
Liptovský hrad. Later it became the seat of administration of the
castle estate, the property of the OId Hungarian kings until the
mid-15th century and later it was owned by donation or by the
forfeiting of several landlords (for instance, the families Zápoľský,
Thurzo, Ballas and others). The reconstruction of the castle is
attributed to a woman - Magdaléna Zayová. There is a Slovak proverb
which says: the devil sends a woman where he himself cannot get to. In
other words, the deed impossible for men was done by Magdaléna. Even
though it is true that she outlived three husbands (the castle owners)
she kept her energy, as well as the castle and her fourth husband. She
completely restored the castle in Renaissance style and added to it a
Renaissance manor house. The final effect makes the impression that the
old castle remained in the courtyard of the new one. After her death,
probably more lamentated by her subjects than by her husbands, the
owners of the castle changed hands periodically, belonging either to
the rebellious nobility or to the imperial owners. The castle was
heavily damaged during the Rebellions of the Estates at the turn of the
17th and 18th century. After a fire in 1803 only the manor house was
restored as it was the seat of the administration of the estate in
Likava and Hrádok. Further repairs to the building included an
ethnographic museum completed in the 20th century but which is again in
need of restoration.
The community of Liptovský Hrádok originated in the early 18th
century near a location where salt, copper and iron were stored. Forest
workers and state clerks founded here a community called Mravník which
later developed into an important market place of the Horný Liptov
region. In the second half of the 18th century numerous manufacturing,
including wood production and forestry (sawmills, raft ports, etc.)
were founded here and shaped the economic life of the region. In 1768
even a forestry school was opened here by Franz Wissner von
Morgenstern, a forestry prefect of the estate. It was the only school
of its kind in Old Hungary to teach in the Slovak, German, Latin, and
Hungarian Ianguages. Tuition was based on a previously prepared "forest
catechism". Also the newly established iron and smelting works which
together with the forest-technical buildings laid down the foundations
of the town, and have joined the prospering and rapidly growing wood
processing plants.
Hámor, maša and the armament works:
In 1792 the people of Hrádok built a hammermill, processing copper
ore and a blast furnace called maša. The copper ore and forged copper
plates were transported by rafts down the river Váh. lron ore was
weighed in a weighing station and also processed in a blast furnace.
About 70 experts from Germany brought here for their expertise
participated in the production of iron. They beonged to a group of
royal workers who were dressed in uniforms with a complementary salary.
As the iron produced here was of top guality, an armament works was
built in Liptovský Hrádok in 1804 to 1805 where rifles, pistols and
carbines were made. Yearly about 24 thousand pieces of good guality
armaments were produced here.
The community which assumed the name of the local castle, had by the
end of the 18th century been promoted to a town, with market and fair
rights from 1805. This little town simultaneously became the basis for
rafting on the river Váh. HaIfrafts that were later joined to proper
rafts near Ružomberok were made here, goods (iron, salt, copper,
cheese) was transported on the Váh and even up stream on the river
Danube to Vienna. Other new plants and works originated and finally
Liptovský Hrádok became the centre of the Slovak wood processing
industry. In 1851 a forest office which assumed the administration of
the properties was established and in the locality Na Maši, a blast
furnace and workshop producing wood, wool and wooden pipes was formerly
opened in the mid-19th century. An important event in the life of the
local population was the construction of the Košice-Bohumín railway
track in the 1870's. Consequently a new social group was born - the
railwaymen. They participated, together with workers and bricklayers in
the workers' movement instigating strikes that resulted in the partial
improvement of their social situation. Liptovský Hrádok was also the
centre of anti-Nazi resistance in the region of Horný Liptov and the
place of numerous operations by partisans. After the liberation, the
renovation of the town started and a new electrotechnical plant was
opened here. The revival of the tradition of wood-processing brought
further industrial promotion. The symbols of wood and hammer are
reftected also in the coat of arms of the town. Its very favourable
position near the Nízke Tatry mountains, at the confluence of two
rivers, together with an attractive natural setting have, in addition,
predestined Liptovský Hrádok to become a centre of water sports and
tourism.
As far as the secular, cultural and historical monuments are
concerned, besides the Gothic castle compound from the 14th century and
the Renaissance manor house, with fortifications from the 17th century,
there is also the belfry and weighing station from 1792 which have been
preserved. These are located in the area called Podjaková between
Liptovský Hrádok and Kráľova Lehota. The prismoid building of the
belfry has a Baroque-Classicist facade and a castellated copula. The
building of the weighing station is oblong in shape with a space for
passing carts and the weighing process. The history of the town is
reminded by the Classicist single-floor houses of the 18th and the
first half of the 19th centuries rimmed by a protected lime alley and a
Classicist building of the former school of forestry. Sacral monuments
include the Classicist Roman-Catholic church of the Visitation of the
Virgin Mary from 1790 with original interior from the same time. The
victims of anti-Nazi resistance and the two world wars are immortalised
by commemorative boards and a monument to the war dead.
In the immediate vicinity of the castle is a park called Hradocké
arborétum, a protected study area of 7.2 hectares with numerous foreign
wood species. Also the nature reserve Balvan pri Maši situated east of
the town on the left bank of the river Váh is worth seeing. It is the
remains of a rocky limestone terrace.
Part of the town is also the municipal locality north-east of the
centre, originally an independent community, called Dovalovo. It was
probably founded in the 13th century around an Early-Gothic church and
it belonged to the castle Hrádok estate. Its inhabitants were mostly
farmers and carters, and they also made their living by lime burning,
carpentry and bricklaying. Until almost the second half of the 20th
century it was also the home of the manufacturing of linen, wool cloth,
carpets and utensils used in sheep-keeping. Dovalovo is dominated by
the Early-Gothic Roman-Catholic St. Martin church from the second half
of the 13th century. In 1610 it was restored in Renaissance style and
later altered in Baroque and Classicist styles. In the Baroque interior
of the church an Early-Gothic window and fragments of Gothic wall
paintings are preserved. The original Late Gothic parts of the altars
are deposited in museums in the towns of Martin and Budapest. Sacral
buildings include the Classicist Evangelical church from 1857 with
valuable paintings of Christ on Mount of Olives and of Martin Luther by
Peter Bohúň.
Moving on from Liptovský Hrádok, passing Dovalovo in north-easterly
direction, one arrives at LIPTOVSKÁ KOKAVA (787 m, population 1,150).
The community was built by the serfs of Dovalovo probably in the first
half of the 15th century. A century later though it did not exist and
had to be repopulated again by the late 16th century. It is one of the
youngest villages around Liptovský Hrádok. Because of favourable
natural conditions, the population lived mainly from agriculture, sheep
raising, logging, colliery, cartage, and home made linen up until the
Second World War. There used to exist also an iron hammer-mill in the
community. The main architectural monuments include the Classicist
Roman-Catholic church of St. Šimon and Júda with Baroque interior
(built in 1830 on the site of an older wooden church) and a
Neo-Romanesque Evangelical church from 1923. In the territory of the
community is also a nature reserve Machy, a locality with peat
communities over an area of almost 26 hectares.
At the northern edge of Liptovský Hrádok there are four communities.
Closest to the town is LIPTOVSKÝ PETER (681 m, population 1,400). It
was for the first time referred to in 1286 and bears the name of the
patron saint of the local Gothic church. In 1363 the community,
belonging to the family of Szentiványi was granted market privileges
and since then it developed as a squire townlet. Later it was
repeatedly destroyed and fell to the level of a serf village. Besides
agriculture, the local population lived off local crafts and the men
were bricklayers. For instance, every fifth man in the community was a
bricklayer in the second half of the 19th century. It is no accident
that Liptovský Peter was the first village to have all its houses made
of bricks in the Liptov region. As the old Gothic church completely
disappeared, the only sacral monuments are the Evangelical church of
1940 standing on the site of an older church and a belfry of 1850.
Nearly Liptovský Peter, in a north-westerly direction is the
community of JAMNÍK (695 m, population 400). It was first mentioned in
1346 and as its name suggests (jama means hole) that it actually
originated in a hole. Legend has it that there were large holes in
Jamník used by the local people to catch game. This squire community
belonged to the squires of Podtureň until as late as 1848. The local
population were mostly farmers; sheep-keeping was another common
occupation and since the end of the 19th century they were also good
bricklayers as proved by the Classicist and fin-de-siécle houses from
the late 19th century. Supplementing occupations were linen weaving and
the manufacturing of utensils used in sheep-keeping. The only sacral
monument here is the Evangelical church of 1907. There used to exist a
community called Sv. Duch in the territory of Jamník but it disappeared
in 1709 during the battles between rebels and the imperial troops.
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